MAYBE NEXT TIME...

RECOLETA CEMETARY
We are sorry that our stay didn’t include time to visit one of the world’s most famous cemeteries, apart from the Pere Lachaise in Paris. The colourful cast of underground characters, from dictators to sports heroes and criminals includes, most famously, Evita Peron. Apparently the tomb sculptures in this strange, enormous 13-acre city park in prestigious Recoleta are worth the trip alone. But it is Eva Peron who died so young and had such a bizarre life, who fascinates us.

THEATRO COLON

This nineteenth century opera house is said to have one of the most beautiful interiors in the world and an absolutely amazing costumes collection. Even though we are more outdoor than museum people I am sure that we would have got a hit from the architecture.

POLO MATCH

We were supposed to spend a day at a polo match on someone’s ranch - which would have taken us out of the urban sprawl. As much as we are curious about this whole other side of Argentinean culture we would prefer to visit a ranch because of an authentic invitation to a family, not a contrived touristic visit.

20/20 VISION

All in all, I think people who love café society and want to slow down to the local rhythm to study the music or learn Spanish are going to have a better time in Buenos Aires than a couple like us passing through and seeking immediate adventure. It’s a city of faded elegance that has seen better days. Even culturally savvy Sheira found it a struggle to find iconic things in Buenos Aires, whether historical, beautiful or geographical, that were really worthy of note.

My 20-something friend had recommended to me not to even go out before 11.00pm for dinner; but I seek my kicks in the daytime too. We really missed the daytime Rio pulse that we related to and had left reluctantly. When you hear people say “BA is like Europe” my response is, if you want to see Europe, go to Europe. People who have not been to Buenos Aires in the last 5 years may be a little bit shocked: whereas Brazil is booming with offshore oil discoveries Argentina is going backwards, with a non-performing government.

We also found the people a little more formal. They tend to look down their nose at other South American countries, including the Brazilians, with their shorts-on-the-beach culture (they laugh right back, teasing Argentineans over their blazers, button up shirts and college shoes).