We had a terrific lunch out on the terrace of this restaurant in AVANOS, the town on the other side of the Kizilirmak, or Red River, that is known for its beautiful earthenware pottery. I love the way the owners have restored two incredible old stone houses to create a hospitable space that matches the architectural beauty of this ancient, preserved town. 

We never had to worry about looking for authenticity in this region - all the business owners we came across seemed to realise that they are custodians of an extraordinary place. 


From the moment we entered under Bizem Ev’s gorgeous pointed arch on the ground floor we were scooped-up in the traditional Cappadocian atmosphere. There were a number of areas within the restaurant to dine in - from a wine cellar to a closed terrace - and there were a lot of homely decorations, like old wooden platters on the wall or little jugs on the shelf. Everything appeared to look like it has  been there for a thousand years.

You can sit at traditionally low tables or outside on the upper terrace, which gave us a connection with the town outside. Our lunch hostess, Ferit Erin really looked after us. We ordered a mezze plate to start of simple Turkish peasant food with lamb and chicken shish kebabs, lots of rice and potatoes. We loved the ethnic flavour of the menu, with plenty of side dishes like liver and stuffed aubergine. We saw a couple next to us enjoy a local Güveç stew served in copper pots and Avanos Mantı, a regional specialty that is best described as a pasta stuffed with meat.


The food, service and atmosphere all came together here - and Avanos is a picturesque town on the valley trail to stop off and have lunch.

I am the king of the curious when I travel and am never afraid to ask locals, for a special suggestion. I find people are delighted to introduce you to their country and add their own touch to your memory.
I asked Jessica, a young lady from Cappadoccia Balloons, for a dinner suggestion for our last night here. She said not only did she know the best restaurant to go to for traditional home cooking, she even suggested the dishes to order! She urged me to try the famous TESTE KEBAB at Dibek’s, which needs to be ordered in advance because the meat is slow cooked in a clay pot all day.

It was the best meal we had in Cappadoccia! 


We put in our request over the phone, and it was fun to drive to the neighbouring Goreme Valley that night on a dinner mission. This village is also a must to visit by day because of its famous medieval painted cave churches. The owner of Dibek, Mehmet, really looked after us, and seemed to enjoy the challenge of living up to the recommendation that morning from Jessica.

The ceilings within the restaurant were arched (there don’t seem to be any corners in Cappadocia - fine by me, it’s better feng shui!) and the decor is very earthy, right back to Turkish roots. We sat on cushions and kilims right on the ground in a cosy private dining room on the second floor of the restaurant.


The meal was a really memorable experience. Mehmet personally served us recommending wine and asking us of our impressions of his village and surrounding area. The ‘testi kebab’ is a stew cooked slowly in a terra-cotta pot over an open fire. They served it to us by cracking our pots at the table;  Zoe couldn’t believe that they broke an object especially for her dinner! The lamb and chicken teste was tender and delicious. This dish is nothing like our sense of a kebab: it’s chopped with peppers and seasoned with sauces and lots of condiments served over rice. There were - slices of green tomatoes, mounds of red pickled cabbage, white beans and ‘Bamya Yemeği,’ which is okra with chopped tomato and onion. We drank wine out of metal goblets! 


We had a lovely after dinner coffee with our taxi driver, Harun Yucefaydali who is based in Goreme and  available as personal driver around the whole region which he knowns like the back of his hand. (You can find his contact number in our black book).