I owe the Lešić Dimitri big time for not pushing us to hard to have a quick lunch – but for rather slowing down our pace and bringing us to the Konoba for one of our most wonderful lunches we have ever had ANYWHERE in the world.

We only had an overnight stay in the old town of Korčula and I was so tense on arrival from the mornings mishaps. I am a planner and my boat trip had been a mistake; the projectile vomit didn’t help! Let’s say that I was determined to make what was left of the day work.

Tony at the hotel said to me, “You gotta relax Jonathan if you want to fit in with the people here; things move at a slow pace.” I laughed, “My friend - I don’t have time for slow pace. I have research, places to discover, a family to feed and I can’t wait to hit the beach.” It was 2pm and I needed a lunch suggestion for something quick; even on holiday I am an A-type doer (read stress merchant).

He took us outside to nearby ULICA MARKA ANDRIJICA, a narrow cobblestone lane PIJACETA with a long table set up outside. We had no idea what to expect, but this al fresco nook was tucked away and charming.

We were in the hospitable hands of a local, Drojan who explained that he would love to serve the very best fish, meats and cheeses and bring the best of the menu to us. Normally we don’t drink in the day in case we zonk out, but this was one of those encounters where the host throws up his hands with that irresistible, ‘you are in Europe; live your life,’ charm. He brought out three Croatian reds to try and opened the special one that he particularly recommended: a 2006 POSTUP MARE red from the MRGURDIC vineyard in one of Croatia’s most prestigious winemaking regions, POSTUP.

Quite simply, it’s the best red that has ever glided down our throats! Normally you let wine breathe but this was insane, as Noah would say, from the word go. Drojan had said that he didn’t mind opening the bottle - even though I had said we would only have a glass each. It was only after the meal that he told me how super rare this wine is: the vineyard only produces 24 cases a year. Let it be known we never stuck to the plan of one glass each!

The winemakers, Marija Mrgudic and her brother Niko Bura come from one of the leading wine families; the Postup vines grow on hillside terraces overlooking the Adriatic. Apparently a grower from California’s Napa Valley comes to the coastline every year, purely to study the techniques of these old fashioned, Croatian methods of making wine.

Sheira and I were in gourmet heaven; the love and feeling that went into growing and producing this wine is in every drop. We eased back, enjoying our full-bodied, plumy red wine and watched the blank canvas of this snowy, white tablecloth become this wonderful tableau.

A waiter brought big jugs of fresh lemonade out to the table. Drojan sent out homemade cheese and figs: these local cheeses lie in their own curd for quite a while so they are very tangy and quite strong, with a texture halfway between creamy and solid. Plates of wonderful Mediterranean style, marinated veggies like zucchini, tomato and eggplant arrived. The bread was so doughy and fresh that it sprang open (sadly Sheira can’t have wheat and join the bread basket party). We had delicious, juicy baby shrimps, and Drojan said, I won’t overdo the entrees as you will have a very special main course.

There was such a sense of adventure in being taken care of by this wonderful caring man.
I have moments of travel that stay with me and I knew that this was going to be one. There we are between beautiful, old stone walls, with no one walking past us, the whole lane to ourselves, being served at this tiny restaurant where a great meal is being created before our eyes!

Drojan promised and delivered superb Korčula seafood; he runs the restaurant with his fisherman brother and gets the freshest fish daily. Noah doesn’t eat fish so our host says; you will have the most beautiful beef fillet - leave it to me. The cook grills it in a little wine sauce and it ends up being the best steak that Noah ever had. There were plenty of homemade specialties on the menu and Drojan knows all the best local wines - you could do plenty of field trip research on Croatian culture right here at his table every day!

The whole meal was hearty, healthy, and tasted sensational without being ‘over disguised’ by technique or buried in sauces. This accidental find was absolutely brilliant; look how happy we are!

It was magical, completely raw, authentic - and unexpected! Everything I love when I travel… Konoba Marinero felt really special and goes to the top of our charts with a bullet. It’s up there with our beach club lunches at old favourite, La Fontalina in Capri (which all of a sudden seems comparatively commercial).

I realised that today was about embracing the long, European afternoon lunch and letting the beach go - so we let the Konoba meal unroll at its own pace. We had been going for 18 days and it was just what we needed. Unfortunately we were too full to order dessert - although kids always manage, so Zoe had gelato. They still brought out fresh fruit, so popular in Greece, Turkey and here in Croatia, pineapple, strawberries and melon. Then the coffee and assorted petit fours arrived - dont think we didn’t nibble on “just one more.” Korčula’s favourite drink, SLJIVOVICA - the locally produced plum brandy - would have pushed us to the edge. It was 3 hours of food heaven.

I love the thought of you possibly pulling up a chair in this Korčula laneway to join Drojan someday, it will be a meal to remember!