As a new traveler to Jordan, driving in the rural desert atmosphere of the south, I wanted to stop for lunch en route to Petra. Happily enough, my new guide took me to his home village, Wadi Musa. 

One of the upsides to spending time with a private guide has always been stepping away from the tourist circuit to share a meal somewhere that he himself would go, along with the real locals.

I loved the texture and the contrast of being in Jordan, meeting random people in an unmistakably Arab atmosphere that has remained unchanged through generations. Muslim women covered up in headscarfs were filling up their large water bottles, even putting their feet in; an elderly man sold brooms on the street. Men with their traditional, flowing keffiyeh headdress sat next to us to eat. 

We stopped at a simple restaurant full of townspeople; nearby old men hunched together, always in discussion. We ate the classic, Middle Eastern fare out on the street on a linoleum tablecloth that had seen better days, swiping thick, fresh pita bread into the creamy homemade humus and dollops of oil, with delicious sides of fresh, lightly fried falafel balls and peas. I just loved the rawness and authenticity of a lunch like this, with thick, hand-cut chips and a simple box of tissues instead of paper napkins. 

It was completely old-school: just delicious, authentic street food that is quick and easy to make. The pita bread in these places has been made fresh an hour before by the grandmother not torn from a bag from the supermarket. The falafels are fried with a light touch that keeps them springy and light. This is earthy, original “fast food” that has taken off all over the world, but it’s really special to try it on home turf, the way it is really done.