What we first loved about this stunning port was the distinctive character of its amazing old castle wall and fortifications. The fortress of St-John that protects the town, with semi-circular towers at strategic points, really gives Dubrovnik its magical, medieval look that is almost surreal in such a gorgeous Mediterranean setting.

The old town was so special that it was the main focus of our attention. I would call its cobblestone streets a ‘mind game’ in the best sense of the word - at every turn they are full of beauty, liveliness and historical interest; it is really culturally rich. On a single walk you’ll pass colonnades, fountains, squares, mansions, monasteries and incredible architecture, largely unchanged through the centuries. There are amazing sights on every corner and every building has religious meaning or comes with an incredible backstory.

But our family was on a holiday, not a scholarly tour, so we also loved the way the busy cafes and food stalls on the streets brought them to life. We got such a good feeling walking around - it is amazing to recapture what it is like to only travel by foot, with no cars. Like Taormina in Sicily, this town has the right size: big enough for many layers, but not too daunting to cover in a few days.

People come off their private boats or the bigger cruise ships to shop, eat, party or soak up the atmosphere. This is also a national summer destination. Croatians bring their families to the seaside and into the old city - in fact we were hearing very little English.

I was really happy waking up here on our first Saturday morning. In fact I realised that I will go out of my way to hit new places on the weekend. They are the most fun days for the locals, and it just flows on to visitors. The beach clubs and restaurants are full, the streets are buzzing; we are not a family who shy away from happy crowds or people milling around outside. Busy streets in small places lend it atmosphere.

This part of the beautiful Dalmatian Coastline is separated from inland Croatia by the DINARIC MOUNTAIN RANGE, and Dubrovnik’s sea-trading past goes back as far as the Roman era. It was a thriving, merchant city-state on the commercial routes linking the east and west, with a powerful aristocracy.

Due to its amazing fortifications the town has resisted sieges. Ironically however, considering we love that it is one of the most historically preserved urban centres in Europe, the original Gothic and Renaissance-era Dubrovnik was reduced to rubble in an earthquake in 1667, and almost all of the medieval religious buildings and palaces were destroyed. The over the top curlicues, stone carvings and ornamentation were replaced with the purer, simple artisanship of the Romanesque Baroque style in pale, honey coloured stone. Although the town went through destruction, it was rebuilt to be beautiful and decorative once again, in a whole new way that still seems wonderfully old to us. Of course the town’s problems didn’t end there. The world watched in horror as the Yugoslavian People’s Army brutally shelled the main city and looted its art heritage in 1991. But it’s a new world there now and the locals are proud that once more people are discovering the region that was a booming attraction in the East from the 50s to the 80s.

More than anywhere, you join the town strolling down PLACA, a wide thoroughfare that runs through the literal heart of the city and is also the soul of the place. It’s also a lovely open-air gathering place with lanterns, old stone shopfronts with green shutters and old-fashioned canvas awnings. The highest point, the way it always used to be in any town, is THE BELL TOWER, where a statue stands by the massive bell.

Placa widens into LUZA SQUARE, where I loved strolling past my favourite building as we walked to dinner each night, the 15th century RECTOR’S PALACE. There is a reason it stands out from the pale stone buildings everywhere else. The façade (as well as the SPONZA PALACE) are all that remain of the entire medieval streetscape before the Renaissance-era earthquake.

The difference really stands out in the stunning decorative detail: the ornamental arches of the gothic windows, different capitals and little figures at the top of each column along the porch and fantastical door knocker fierce face that is carved on the main portal. The small palace is lit up beautifully at night and reminds you that in a homogenous looking period town, many other eras came before.

Another standout from the usual simple Dubrovnik stone look is the 18th century CHURCH OF ST BLASIUS, built a few generations later during the full flamboyance of the Baroque period. No era has more razzle dazzle - demonstrated brilliantly by the altar made with different coloured marble and the over the top silver statue of St Blasius. February 3rd is the perfect time to see the church because its patron saint is celebrated with a procession of his relics through the streets. It would be an amazing sight, with richly embroidered gold folk costumes, scarlet-cloaked bishops and the whole town gathered in the square in front of the church. I’d love to photograph it one day.

Zoe loved passing her favourite town character, ROLAND’S COLUMN - a statue of a medieval knight that is so at home here, even though he has been moved around a lot, that his arm was used as a local measurement called an “ell of Dubrovnik,” which is 51.2 cms.

What is so amazing about living amongst all the ‘attractions’ is the beautiful landmarks that you simply pass everyday on the way to a swim or to buy a piece of fruit, like THE BIG ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAIN close to the Pile Gate - a giant, 1438 enclosed well which sprouts water from the decorative, sculpted faces. On the eastern side, near Luza square, we passed the baby version, THE LITTLE ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAIN - which is open, without the dome of the ‘big brother,’ feauring fish and frolicking nymphs.

But life clearly revolved around religion all those centuries ago; you constantly pass places of worship like the tiny CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR and sacred communities like convents and religious statues. The friars libraries are full of the most incredible medieval artwork, although the peaceful cloister is off limits to the hordes.

The FORTRESS CITY WALLS are not just a testament to Dubrovnik’s turbulent past but a beautiful place to walk along and actually visit. The walls encircle the whole town - and you can see the interiors of the towers and grand old gates up close, or sail around the cliffs below, where old wooden, coloured doors by the ocean reveal secret passages to the sea.

On the inland side the stone and lime walls are a whopping 6 metres thick - cars on the other side drive down the leafy, pretty Mediterranean streets of the rest of the city. The sea walls run along the magnificent, steep, craggy cliffs of the coastline and the FORTRESS OF THE PASSING BELL points out to open ocean over massive boulders. The PILE GATE with the drawbridge is on the western wall. And imagine strolling to the beach everyday via the beautiful stone bridge connecting the amazing 15th century double portals of THE PLOCE GATE on the wall’s eastern side; it’s pure fairytale terrain. I still can’t get over that!

HALL OF SHAME

For such a lovely locale, it is a pity that the restaurant lets the Eastwest Beach Club down so badly. There are great outdoor terraces and al fresco eating areas, including an unusual, curved wall dotted with big pebbles and a straw covered patio right on the beach.

The food and service were shocking. The kitchen was always frustratingly slow and one time they just lost our order. When you are on the beach there is nowhere else to go, so we tried to outfox the slow motion staff. We would call the waiter over and order lunch early from the deckchairs - but still it never came!

We tried the more casual seafood off the grill in the little BBQ area, but the service and food was just as ordinary. We enjoyed the gorgeous beach and blue ribbon location; it is a great place to chill out. But don’t go hungry - there is no getting away from an incompetent chef and staff.

Hopefully their cocktails come faster, as Eastwest operates as a NIGHTCLUB from 10pm until 5 in the morning. The huge indoor lounge, with high ceilings and pillars, is bathed in red light and keeps the nightlife pumping in summer.

I discovered another spectacular hole in the wall near ST JOHN’S FORT that opens at a gorgeous little stone pier and tiny harbour beach looking out to the Adriatic Sea. There is a small red metal lighthouse there and I like the fact that it is something of a local secret. On my last day I wanted to squeeze in one last dip here after my morning run and tried to take Zoe - but Sheira had her changed and organized.This was a great last memory of this town for me - maybe a dip at Porporela will be your beginning…

This seaside nook by the fortress wall is also a town gathering place throughout the calendar. Every year there is a traditional month of water polo, “Divlja Liga” where teams named after famous locales around Dubrovnik play. The climax is the final match, which takes place in the old harbour in front of all “the citizens of Dubrovnik” as Nicolina at our hotel, the Pucic Palace quaintly put it. The winner gets “appreciation from the mayor and a big cup.” But it’s not only about hitting a ball, it’s about having a ball - there are techno parties, ‘glamour’ parties and ‘Night on Porpola Beach’ events as well.