Without a doubt, the one thing I would consider mandatory when coming to Panarea is to hire a boat. The island has some of the best boating waters anywhere in Europe and its well worth setting aside a couple of days specifically for boating.

I did a bit of research (how unusual for me!) and found a place down at the Marina where we could hire a little outboard motor boat to go out to the islands for the day. You don’t need experience or a boat licence to one of these out on the water - just an independent streak. I’m not a fan of heading out with local fisherman, I’d much prefer to do my own thing.

An important thing to remember when you are hiring a boat in these waters is to make sure that it has a big engine. The Tyrrhenian Sea currents around the islands are surprisingly strong, and if you’re heading out to Stromboli, you’re going to need some serious horsepower. 

I explained to Allesandro, the local “Rental Boat” operator, that I’m here for five or six days, and I’d really like to have a boat “on call” for when I need it. After an enjoyable round of negotiations, Allesandro and I strike a deal for somewhere around 80 Euros a day, not including fuel, which would be calculated at the end of each day.

We bring aboard a meticulously prepared lunch basket of meats, cheeses, breads, olives and fruits that I put together at the deli, then pretty soon it’s off with the shirt and out to sea we go. Our plan is to take a look around and then decide where we’d like to stop. 

There are so many stunning bays and coves around the island that it’s hard to pick just one. Drauto is the biggest of the bays, but the rocky outcrops of Basiluzzo and Dattilo make enticing offshore options.  

I love boats, and it’s a joy to see so many magnificent old vessels out on the water. Some of them are absolute classics; beautifully designed in teak and stainless steel. They’re gorgeous – and so are the people who turn up the music and dance the afternoon away right on the deck. 

There are so many tiny nameless coves, bays and grottos dotting the coastline that we were actually spoiled for choice. We ultimately settle on an un-named cove on the northwest coast. We decide to christen our bay “Sheira’s Cove.” We hope the locals approve!

Our boat has a jaunty yellow and white striped sunshade, and we eat lunch in its shade. There may be more idyllic spots in the world, but at this particular moment, I can’t think of one!

The coves themselves are quite striking. There are massive cliffs, craggy outcrops, and large, almost cartoon-like black crystal formations.  At the end of a lovely day on the water, we return the boat at about 5pm. As we pull up to the tiny port it becomes clear that something pretty exciting is happening down on the port.

It turns out that from about five to eight o’clock the place really livens -up.. Chairs and low tables are put out…speakers start pumping out music…and beautiful people appear out of nowhere to fill up the portside bars. It’s fantastic. Carpets are laid on the ground - it’s almost like being in Morocco. We had never seen anything like it.

We headed to one of the bars and sat down on these low Moroccan seats with wooden arms and a sort of cushion made out of woven black rope.  It was just the coolest scene. 

Lanterns were lit, and little waterside stalls sold jewelry and other trinkets. Sheira and I were still glowing from out day on the water, and now here we were enjoying some of the best “people watching” on the planet.  You could see everything from physically perfect, honey coloured young Europeans sporting the latest casual chic look, side by side with a crusty old sea salt with an open white shirt, big baggy pants, a crocheted hat, and a pair of flip flops.  You don’t have to be young and perfect to be tres chic! Mind you, it helps.

After the peace and tranquility of a day on the water, you might think that stumbling upon this incredibly vibrant and lively scene could be a little jarring, and a bit of a shock to the system.  It was actually quite the opposite. Sheira and I loved it. It was a perfect way to end a truly wonderful day.  Taking in the sights, sounds and smells of this little port being turned into a seemingly impromptu festival was an absolute joy. It was a fitting way to end a day that had already been a sensory smorgasbord.