For me the fact that there are no ‘attractions’ on the island (ruins, clubs, shopping, tourist amenities) has ironically made the island itself an amazing attraction, as it has preserved it from much change…

The elevated, medieval town of HORA is a delight - the picture perfect Cycladian village has PLATEIAS (squares) connected by winding walkways covered in paving where each stone has been outlined in white, under canopies of the most glorious bouganvillea. The limewashed houses come to life in the morning, as cats are shooed off the marble steps by a mother or old lady who opens the shutters onto the square and starts to broom. The bakeries, butchers and flower sellers have all been here for years and everyone ambles. You just let car culture and urban stress go…  

The only modern sign of lifestyle changes, was the hole in the wall ATM cash machine. These were a Godsend, as many of the tavernas only deal in cash. They don’t have fancy gizmos to process credit cards.

I am glad I booked a car, as I loved exploring the more isolated, craggy terrain here, which has its own arid beauty. I was blown away by how many hillsides were empty or sparsely populated.  There are webs of gorgeous, ancient stonewalls through the fields of spring wildflowers and fresh thyme.  Most people get around the rolling hills, farmland, dirt roads and beaches of the island in jeeps and motor bikes; there are only a handful of cars. As we drove around the countryside we saw beehives in the fields, Greek widows bent over carrying bails of dried out brush while walking her old donkey, virtually stopped in time. I had never seen things this way before. It took me back in time to what I had thought the Greek Islands were before visiting Santorini and Mykonos, or even Hydra, to really see a somewhat rural but still gorgeous unspoilt Greek Island.

My Folegandros point person, Paul had always told me about this beach on the Southeastern tip, not far from the main port, Karavostasis on the coastal road.  We drove there laughing in the car, which was all dusty. You just let yourself go; so we got into the spirit - and the dust. Although I am a neat freak at home, who cares here? We’ll swim it off.

There is something gentle about its hillside slopes and slight crescent pristine sands. Livadi became our daily morning ritual. A tranquil place to come  each morning after breakfast for a quick swim, another coffee and start planning the day!

This beach is one of the prettiest we saw, with a tiny traditional church and gorgeous views of the craggy cliffside to the south. You can either sail to it from the main port or take the 45- minute walk from Angali Beach, past a dilapidated timber fence near the taverna.

I liked the walk because we saw little caves, tiny beaches that were really sandy nooks, and fishing boats tied up to the rocks. At the end of the rocky path you’ll find a lively atmosphere of younger people playing music under the tamarask trees or drinking ouzo at the bar. If you are looking for company this has a lively atmosphere.  Warning attached: this is the only official nudist beach so be aware…it was fun to look, but did not dare to join myself!

When I started running on Folegandros, every corner was a picture postcard, I could cover the narrow alleyways and squares of the whole village of Hora in 10 minutes, running circles around it.  I pushed myself and started running all the way downhill to the port, Karavostasis. I felt pretty amazing out there alone on the winding northern coastal roads. When buses of people were heading uphill in the other direction to work they looked out at me and waved support, as if I was a torch-carrier at the Olympics! With such a big sky above, the rolling uninhabited hills ahead and the sparkling Aegean as far I could see, I felt moved to be so at one with the elements.