Korčula’s winding lanes and roads, tiny churches and gorgeous cathedral bell tower are like a snapshot of life from the 14th century onwards: it’s like stepping into the pages of a history book. There is an intimacy about the village size of the old town too, with the cluster of terracotta-tiled houses, pretty little bays with fishing boats and gorgeous stone walls and towers, it is like the miniature version of Dubrovnik. In all these medieval towns you enter through an archway - here it is Revelin Tower, with tiny windows where you can just imagine a guard poised with a bow and arrow.

I have one of those personalities that can’t afford to miss out on anything, especially when I am on new turf, so when the kids flopped and dropped in our hotel after our long lunch, I just had to get outside. It would have literally been too stressful for me to “chill out.”

Sheira I am glad to say joined me on my wanders. A great place to start is by the hotel, on the Zakrjan seaside promenade by the Eastern wall. We walked past the little cafes, restaurants and beautiful rows of pine trees then meandered through the village centre, which is packed with historical interest and free of cars (you just hear the light purr of those kooky 3-wheeled motorbikes).

Luckily for the town all the old Korčula aristocratic families were show offs who built mansions throughout the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods. Unlike Dubrovnik, there was no earthquake, so many different layers remain. While the mainland was part of the Dubrovnik Republic, Korčula was a part of the Venetian empire from medieval times to 1800, for about 400 years, so you can also see the richness and influence of the famous Venetian craftsmanship and artistry.

MARCO POLO’S HOUSE is the old loggia and semi-ruin where the world’s most famous explorer is believed to have been born in 1254, although he sailed far, far away from this hemisphere at a time when no-one even left their village. The infamous Marco Polo trail starts right here, where the old tower looks out over the village rooftops.

On the main PJACETA SQUARE we saw a beautiful BISHOP’S PALACE with a gorgeous extra long balcony on the façade. The Renaissance Palace Ismaeli has now been converted into a TOWN MUSEUM that documents the many bygone eras of Korčula, all the way beyond Greek occupation to prehistoric times. The library and other niche museums, like the MUSEUM OF ICONS are there for those who want to delve deeper.

Due to a wealth of local limestone there was also a thriving culture of stone masonry here; Sheira kept pointing out the archways and flamboyant carvings around the gothic windows. It is so incredible to pass medieval churches in every square, and even down little side streets.

The literal high point of the old town is the medieval SVETI MARKO CATHEDRAL with a Renaissance, domed BELL TOWER on the façade that is a symbol of the island. These amazing extra-special churches took generations to build so it is easy to see several styles throughout the cathedral, from the Romanesque first story to the Gothic second story. It is amazing to think that the village poured time and money into a religious tribute that the villagers themselves would never see finished in their lifetime.

We then passed through the GOVERNORS TOWER and strolled along the little port, where young people relaxed on the beach and windsurfers glided by on the choppy waters. This part of the Adriatic is known for its breezes; in fact the village is supposed to be purposely at an angle to be swept clean by them! We sat on the wall chatting as it was too windy to go into the water - just the perfect temperature for just sitting in the sun doing nothing. It was the first time Sheira and myself had been alone the whole trip, so we just enjoyed the view out to sea and the peaceful surround.

Being somewhat isolated over the last few decades, Korčula has kept its FOLKLORE HERITAGE very much alive. Community Societies get together to wear traditional village costumes, the women in picturesque white lace blouses, colourful silk waistbands and thick coral beads. Throughout the year Saints Days and religious holidays are observed with processions, masked entertainment, medieval songs and knightly ritual dances called KUMPANIJA dancing. Dalmation folk songs are usually sung in nine-part harmony and there are medieval religious brotherhoods that have lasted until today. When returning to the Dalmation Coast I would love to catch one of these ‘ye olde Korčula’ moments when the village genuinely parties and keeps these old traditions going for themselves, not just for tourists.

We were happy with our overnight trip in the tiny old town, but visitors staying longer can explore THE REST OF THE ISLAND at leisure. There are vineyards, tucked away beaches, ruins and stunning scenery. With hillsides of conifers, Aleppo pines and Dalmation black pines Korčula has more forest than most of the other islands in this archipelago. And there is 182 kms of shoreline dotted with lots of islets and other islands, so it would be fantastic to SAIL around these waters. Guests of the Lešić Dimitri can charter their PRIVATE MOTOR YACHT to explore.

We were so much more open to THE SURROUNDING TOPOGRAPHY of the PELJESACE PENINSULA after we took the ferry back to the mainland. Our journey back was relaxed this time and such a pleasure. We drove past vineyards, little stone cottages, lush hillsides and impossibly quaint villages - some of them tiny. My absolute favourite on the coastal road, VIA STON - that connects the seaside to the Croation mainland - is TRSTENIK, still in the OREBIC region. It is going in my rural fantasy file: I could spend a week at a place like that, completely giving into the atmosphere.

The driver explained that the vineyards and wine regions like Putnikovici are perfect for the booming wine industry: they are close to the coast, the weather is temperate all year round and the locals are passionate about their harvest producing the finest wines in Europe. But you don’t have to be a buff to enjoy Croatian wine country, where the signage is unchanged and old-fashioned and there are no footpaths - just nature and the road.