The SINGITA GRUMETI RESERVES is a fantastic locale for game viewing. The Singita Group’s concession spans over 350,000 acres of virgin wilderness in Northern Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. 

In this vast area there are only three safari camps (with about 70 beds) belonging to Singita - yet the reserve is on the path of tens of thousands of animals like zebras, Thompson gazelle, impala and eland making their annual migration.The game drives here offer amazing access to the spectacle of wildebeest traveling each year on their ritual clockwise pilgrimage to rains and lush greenery. The annual GREAT MIGRATION from here to the Masai Mara is another reason that Faru Faru was a star property for us on this trip.

Large parts of the reserve have also been leased from the locals to breed and populate animals in the wild. So our family was excited setting out each day knowing that we were in for some amazing game viewing.

One morning while showering outdoors I looked over to the Grumeti River and saw a troop of baboons feeding and grooming each other. I was able to watch them for over an hour from close-up, interact with each other, and how human they seem in so many of their mannerisms!

We came across a pride of 6 magnificent lions one morning resting under a tree near a large water hole. Three large crocodiles lay on the river bank, and this spectacle was made even more bizarre by the fact that there were antelope and zebra aware of the predators around, but not running away in fear. They knew both the lions and crocodiles had recently fed, and posed no danger. 

It was strange to see both predator and prey in such close proximity, following the primal rhythms of down time as well as kill time; But there is a price to trusting a predator. We were amazed on one of our drives to see baboons and antelopes calmly grazing together one moment, and then see an aggressive male baboon bare its fangs and viciously attack a small impala.

I remember a really large tree absolutely teeming with baboons who ran off the branches, down the trunk and away with a lightening speed that fascinated me. We saw a lot of elephant, buffalo, and of course came close to the spectacular sight of the Great Migration - sometimes the animals were traveling in single file, with wildebeest queuing behind zebra in an orderly line that went on for miles, an amazing occurrence to witness.

After early dawn starts we were happy to come back to the lodge and unwind and enjoy the rest time, before doing it all over again late afternoon. Sheira would read, I would journal my experiences, and Zoe would spend endless hours in the pool. 

Most people go on safari for an average of three- four days. I agree this is about the right length, unless you are a die-hard wildlife explorer or photographer. 

GREAT MIGRATION PEAK TIME IN THE SERENGETI:  July to August.

Even though we chose Faru Faru for our stay at Grumeti in the Serengeti, I knew Singita would pull off an amazing version of luxury tenting - so we took the opportunity to experience the “close second” -SABORA CAMP, an hour’s drive away. This SIX-TENT safari camp on the edge of the wildlife-rich Serengeti plains completely embraces a gorgeous 1920s, aristocratic-in Africa mood. With true Singita obsession for detail, not one accessory strikes a false note - from the windup gramophones to the two vintage Chevrolets. 

Our gracious welcome at Sabora awaited. As we climbed down from the Land Rover, we stepped onto little wooden stairs and into another world. The assistant manager took us to the main camp tent. There was a beautiful copper basin with fresh, fluffy towels where an urn of water was ready for the staff to pour over our dusty hands…now that’s a welcome !

We were welcomed onto one of the best OUTDOOR TERRACES that I have seen: the massive space is full of texture, interest and intimate nooks - with everything organic and neutral. There is a whimsical open plan bar made entirely of wicker and leather cushions on gorgeous cane chairs clustered in different positions.

The Bedouin style camp site was nothing short of magnificent! Once you enter the luxury tents, there is that exotic European mix - antique mahogany chests, thick Persian rugs, wing tipped chairs, silver candelabra and old sepia shots of tribal Africa. Sheira adored the unusual hand stitched cushions in rich paisley fabric, and all the small touches like a leather belt to hold back the soft rolls of a canvas tent!

You could play chess under the brass candelabra, or retire to the LIBRARY for a real gentlemen’s club atmosphere, with brass desk lamps, an internet printed newspaper, or the internet to catch up with what is happening elsewhere.

Each public  “room” is another stand-alone tent. One was the BOUTIQUE with local Tanzanian and East African handicrafts: massive beaded rings, fabrics, hurricane lamps, statues, animal masks, and other exotic African items.There is even a TENTED GYM, with airconditioning and life cycle machines!

SUITE DREAMS

I loved the tented suites’ brush-like signature feature:… twigs have been bunched together to form walls with windows where canvas simply rolls aside. The tented suites are covered in rich coloured Persian rugs, beautiful tapestry ottomans and dreamy mosquito nets. The effect is pure romantic, old-school safari chic.

My favourite touch is the stand alone porcelain claw foot bath (with the antique iron day bed and umbrella in the bush outside a close second). Possibly the only weakness is the swimming pool which is quite small and  little uninviting - but certainly not a reason not to go to this superb camp.

If I hadn’t already committed to my stay at a tented camp in the Masai Mara, I could have been very happy staying here at SABORA TENTED CAMP.

If you want the glamour of retro, tented luxury, then you can’t possibly go wrong with Singita Sabora Tented Camp. It’s time travel!