The 8 km Buzios peninsula is an ecological paradise that is surprisingly low-key and well preserved - it is even a natural butterfly sanctuary. In beach communities development can often let down the gorgeous surroundings here the township is one of its charms.

A lot of the original cobblestone roads are traffic-free - they are so rough and undulating that they are more donkey than car-friendly anyway. Building restrictions have preserved the architectural vernacular of the region. There is a 2-floor maximum to keep Buzios low-rise and organic, crafts material like stone, straw and wood preserve the rustic feel.

Thanks to Buzios architects like Octávio Raja Gabaglia and Hélio Pellegrino the town has some wonderful buildings and a smart European look, with freshly painted arches and colonial looking street lamps. When we walked down the main ‘downtown’ street, the Rua das Pedras (street of stones) we mingled with Brazilians going clubbing and bar hopping as the bass lines of live music came thumping out into the street. By day it was the art galleries that drew you in. The town’s love affair with Brigitte Bardot (she loved them right back) has been made official with a statue.

Of course the major attraction for us is the natural beauty of the 8km peninsula and its 23 beaches on both sides so we couldn’t wait to explore it. We knew that off-season, the sleepy rural charm of mother nature makes it a playground where you can ride horses, paintball, go-kart play golf, bike everywhere and hire beach-buggies. Of course water sports like scuba diving, snorkeling and fishing are huge here. If guests at the boutique Hotel Insolito want a sports buddy, specialized hotel staff will take them kayaking, windsurfing and sailing around U-shaped Ferradura Beach. And their 19-foot boat, Drago is available for wakeboarding and boia-cross - the Brazilian take on water-skiing for groups.

But Brazilians have a knack for making even tranquil Mother Nature festive. What makes this distinctively Buzios is the celebratory life on the peninsula’s 23 beaches that attracts people to hop from one distinct spot to another. We couldn’t wait to explore the beach scene from the water.

We couldn’t take the Hotel Insolito’s own 30 feet boat, Rush because the Captain goes on holiday in their winter. So the boutique hotel arranged for a private speedboat to pick us up on the beach in front of the Hotel swimming pool. We scrambled over the rocks and set sail through crystal clear, green water to explore the coastline.

We launched from the South-Eastern coast beaches, which are wilder because they face the Atlantic Ocean. So they have become the go-to spot for all the water sports, starting with our beach, Ferradura that the surfers love. We also passed by stunning, quiet spots like surf beach, Praia Brava. Although they are all accessible by small roads as well as boat they felt a bit remote - we even saw miniature horses. Personally, we weren’t in the mood for isolation after our zone-out day alone by the pool but it’s great to have that choice. Some coves were just tiny little strips of sand, but we loved how even when the beaches got bigger and busier the feeling was local and raw - no ‘touristy’ stuff.

We sped around the peninsula’s jagged edge to the beautifully calm waters of the Northwest coast, passing the party beaches full of Sunday locals. João Fernandinho, which has several marquee type bars and fresh seafood. The scene is very casual and festive and it’s amazing how beautifully compact it all is. You have established jungle-like foliage, the street, the beach strip, yellow chairs everywhere and the ocean all within metres of each other.

The lovely, bigger crescent-shaped Praia de João Fernandes next door has the same glass smooth water but with multi-tiered, built up houses and umbrellas everywhere. Little metal drink carts are wheeled amongst the sunbathers and fishermen come to catch anchovies.

I love the vibrant South American colour palette we saw everywhere. The mint walls of the Café Escador with its fire engine red umbrellas and doors and old school thatched roof; the mustard, green and brown stripes of a boat in Praia da Arm acao; window shutters in china blue or bright yellow; boys playing beach soccer in tangerine and bright green t-shirts. It’s such a joy to photograph and these colours just make you feel good.

Then we found our favourite Buzios beach, a perfect little bay called Praia Azeda, with this amazing single, slightly dilapidated dwelling on it that we loved the look of. It’s a private, whitewashed house with old tiles where the flag of the local football team flaps in the breeze. The house is gated and the beach is only accessible by boat - but the beach is still public, so people come and go by water taxi. It’s a lovely little scene with an ice cream cart and a lady selling sarongs by the blue door.

The Orient Express have snapped it up and are converting it into a private luxury hotel so the next time we visit we’ll get to stop down awhile in the bay. We can’t believe we’ll get to stay right there.

We passed one local scene after another as the boat headed all the way to the town centre, Centro and on to the rock pools, sea turtles and Brazil wood trees of Praia Tartaruga… a father and son boating together on the Praia dos Ossos; the village elders gossiping under the shade of the trees; kids playing on the marina, jumping in and fishing; young couples lazing under the banana leaves, tapping their toes to the pumping music. There is a real maritime feel with all the fishing boats, schooners and fresh seafood kiosk snacks that sunbathers nibble on all day, like grilled snapper, anchovies, shrimp and squid.

And of course these are great swimming waters – you can leave the boat and take a dip at any spot that takes your fancy. This was a great day - we don’t need a lot of bells and whistles, just something that is authentic, and we found it out on the water in Buzios…

Join Jonathan Said and his family on their luxury travel journeys as they share their best restaurants experiences and luxury hotels and resorts holidays around the world. The comprehensive travel tips and ideas include some of the most popular things to see and do at each destination including a local shopping guide, photos, video, music and much more.