After a mysterious nocturnal arrival we awoke with a sense of discovery, and my heart leapt when I saw the charming simplicity of this small, 16-room cottage hotel.

The overwhelming asset of the hotel is its dramatically high position, perched on the jagged edge of the Folegandros clifftops. It is not far from PALIOKASTRO- Church of the Virgin, further up the summit, on a spectacularly zig zagging pathway called the STRATAKIA. The church is surrounded by a magnificent old tiered cemetery with ancient walls that were partly built in the 4th century BC!  There are also temple inscriptions to Artemis and Apollo from an older building. I love the way the layers of the ancient world in Greece still rise to the surface even today. It’s surreal for a new world boy like me!

Anyway, back to the story. Although the property feels secluded, with an incredible outlook over the spectacular Aegean, I loved that we could walk just a few minutes downhill to the beautiful white-washed village of Hora. The priceless views are a foil for the unpretentious, earthy feel of the terrace, with pink geraniums in earthenware pots, bright navy blue doors and bursts of richly red bougainvillea that contrast against the dazzling white walls in the harsh sun.
The curved turquoise pool follows the flow of the round raw stone walls, undulating deck and round arches - a lot of soft edges contrast with the classic, cube shaped Cycladic architecture. You can sit on the white canvas director chairs under thatched umbrellas, looking out to a flawlessly clear blue sky and ocean and over totally undeveloped hills to the arid farmland of PANO MERIA in the distance.

Our suite was the standout - it has a compact cottage feel because it has its own living room with a little table and a kitchenette. It would be a good 10-20 sq metres bigger than the rest of the hotel studios at Anemomolis.
The open plan ‘BLUE LINE and ‘GREEN LINE’ studios all have ocean views from different angles.

You just cant argue with the hotel’s position, even though it slips into ‘Category B’ because of the small pool and lack of little luxuries like laundry facilities. In fact it turned out that one of my daily highlights was my excursion to the quaint little laundry down the road, near the gas station, which gave me back neatly, very fresh smelling folded clothes wrapped up in brown paper. The owner of the laundry would see me each morning on my morning run, and swear tomorrow he was going to join me! He never did, maybe we were keeping him to busy!

This was already part of the Folegandros legend to me, as I used to hear my trainer Paul tell me about the taking his laundry to a real character who only opened shop a couple of hours a day because he was on siesta or walking around enjoying life.

Happily, a few years later you can still book a suite for 250 Euros a night
PRICE   Blue line studio      200 Euros
PRICE   Green line              150 Euros

JONATHAN...SAID you can have one of the best times in Europe for 200 Euros a night... I GUARANTEE  the experience if its anything like our time on the island!

For me the Folegandros experience is synonymous with Cornelia and Dimiri’s and the Anemomolis Apartments, but if you can’t get accommodation there, there is now another option on the island that was being built when I ran down to Livadi Beach. The ANEMI is as visually stunning as its beachside location (although you don’t have Hora at your doorstep). It’s like a 5 star hotel with everything you’d see in a Mykonos hotel, and the added flair of hip, modern photography on the walls and Scandinavian furniture. This may mean that Folegandros will slowly get discovered by people looking for designer hotels, not raw originality. Here’s hoping that their footprint won’t be too deep…

PRICE  High 200s to low 800s Euros

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ANEMOMILOS APARTMENTS | Dimitris and Cornelia Patelis, Folegandros | +30 22860 41309 | View web site
ANEMI| Folegandros | +30 22860 41610 | View web site
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