“The One and Only” Palmilla had sent a ‘preference planner’ ahead before we even left Sydney to get a profile on our family. This has become the new must amongst the top-level resorts now and makes such a difference to the level of service (Four Seasons Punta Mita, our previous stop, also offers this feature).

The questionnaire gives the hotel staff a handle on your ages, interests, food allergies or birthdays - and who is going to book spa treatments or need advance golf tee off times. They even enquire about your selection of possible restaurants in advance. It’s always a very good sign…

And I did have a real sense of anticipation; by the time I flew into Cabo I was excited about my choice of hotel. Little did I know that we would be flying so low over the coastline that I would be able to recognize the other resorts on my short list from the air! I had also arranged a surprise that even Sheira didn’t know about. I had chosen the One & Only’s Arrival by Hummer option. I figured, it if is such a special, rockstar hotel then why not give the boys the full thrill right from the get-go!

As we arrived and pushed our trolleys closer and closer, these two amazing hummers were there to pick us up. They sent two to collect us because of numbers but we all piled into one to share the buzz and see each others grins while the other rode convoy with luggage, kicking off with a Hummer-high.

After a half-hour drive we drove through an incredible golf course where private residences have been built. The resort is clearly surrounded by a wider community of people from the high-end guest demographic, as was the Four Seasons Punta Mita resort that we had just visited.

The sense of occasion on arrival at this highly anticipated property doesn’t disappoint. Pulling into the generous sweep of circular driveway around a courtyard fountain would already feel pretty special even without the fun of big, shiny Hummers. You immediately get a feeling of the original hacienda’s old-world charm. The lawn and landscaped garden is bordered by the old whitewashed walls and double rows of beautiful curved arches.

It has that old, colonial estate look; you half expect to see gentlemen ranchers on horses come thundering across the cobblestones the way they would have in the 1800s. But Palmilla is also the original “grand dame” of this resort region, first opening as a private retreat in the 1950s when it was only reachable by private plane. Back in the days when only the jet set traveled to exotic locales, guests like Ernest Hemingway, Lucille Ball, Bing Crosby and John Wayne came to stay.

The incredible setting is right at the point where the surrounding mountainous desert terrain meets the sea of Cortez. Although the desert air is dry, the 29-acres has thousand of palm trees, creating a slightly surreal oasis feeling. I like the fact that this part of Mexico has a severe landscape - not as manicured and with less foilage than where we were before. I love sand dunes, and a rocky, craggy coastline. It makes the tropical gardens of the estate even more special.

“One & Only” have created the beautiful décor that this scenery deserves. Sheira particularly liked the embellishment and detail at every turn, from the beautifully crafted furnishings to the handpainted tiles along the walls leading to the rooms.

SUITE DREAMS

I had chosen a BEACHFRONT PATIO JUNIOR SUITE KING for Sheira and I, thinking that (call me crazy) beachfront would mean on the beach. But it only refers to the view below. Selecting the ground floor hadn’t been enough. The rooms were oversized enough, aesthetically perfect and had brilliant views. I’m smiling because on one hand I’ve hit the jackpot as far as design and Mexican texture goes - but it just didn’t have direct access onto the sands, which I love. I’m thinking, I cannot believe that a resort this size doesn’t have more rooms right on the beach.

The great thing about the Palmilla policy of having your rooms manager come to meet you - right at the Hummer - and make himself accessible in the beginning is the connection it gives you if it’s time to put your hand up and negotiate later. I chatted with our very understanding RM about making the switch, acknowledging that I couldn’t fault the Patio Suite itself.

I set a positive tone: everything’s fine and has met expectations. But could we potentially move rooms to the beach-access ‘casitas’ that I had seen and fallen in love with on the lower level near the adult pool? He reminded me that they are smaller than the suites, but I was willing to sacrifice size for position. Finding two casitas side by side would have been tricky. But by lucky chance an extra-large Master Suite version had just become vacant; it had a huge wrap around terrace that turns a corner, a dining room and separate lounge that Zoe could sleep in. It was the one that had grabbed my attention when walking along the beach gazing in awe at these “casistas’.

Talking privately he said, I’d like to offer you this upgrade but the problem is I can’t move your boys next to you. But the boys were fine. They didn’t want to move from their Oceanfront Deluxe Queen Suite and, being teenagers, were quite happy to have independence and privacy on the 3rd floor away from us. I had to invite Sheira into the meeting so that she would believe that this was a complimentary upgrade! She worries that my desire to really get the suite right upfront will spiral into too many spur of the moment extra costs.

CASITA MASTER SUITE

We were so excited to move into one of the beautiful casitas along the peninsula's edge because now we were right on top of the beach (and right near the adult pool). The décor is spectacular: quite rich and warm. There are wooden doors with patterned metal studs, over-sized mirrors, wonderful curved daybeds with round cushions in vibrant colours, wrought iron stand alone candelabras and well-placed candles… it was actually like a home.

Our Master Suite balcony was three times bigger than the other casita suites, going all the way across the huge double lounge room, dining area and wrapping around to the main bedroom. The size made such a difference. All the windows and doors added even more to the beach house feeling.

Beachfront Pool Casitas from Junior Suite version US$1400 to Master Suite version US$3000 (varies seasonally).

Apart from the aesthetics, the big strength of the One & Only Palmilla is the layout. All the accommodation, including the suites in the single-story and three-story buildings that are perched above the beach, have amazing sea views from the patios or balconies - and in many suites even the bathrooms.

There are plenty of luxury features like Bose surround sound for the entertainment systems, separate seating areas and personal butlers. We liked the little “ONE & ONLY” touches too, such as a welcome tequila and the aromatherapy menu.

Sheira and I really look for stylish, local décor wherever we go and we enjoyed the texture that the “One & Only” creates from the moment you arrive. Sheira’s word was ‘magnificent.’ The modernized, updated sense of Spanish colonial opulence is carried throughout all the public spaces, restaurants and bars, creating a wonderful atmosphere in the resort. Massive weathered old wooden doors and heavy old iron lamps are lightened up by the beautifully shaped, curved day beds with swirl fabric on all the generous verandahs. There was a contemporary feel to the look, with textiles and furniture; the decor had some hard edge grit to it but it was very Mexican and really beautiful. There are rich colours and outdoor fireplaces; beautiful mobiles and a massive chandelier made of double-tiered wrought iron circles hanging from the ceiling - and the estate has its own historic chapel, which attracts a lot of weddings.

This is one of those cream-of-the-crop resorts on the JET-SET RADAR that attracts very exclusive guests. We came across an affable real-estate billionaire from Los Angeles whom we had met 6 months before at the Il San Pietro in Positano, one of the chicest old-school cliffside resorts on Italy’s Amalfi Coast.

He recognized us straight way and we all chatted, meeting the kids for the first time then invited us to the Ivy in a few days when we would all be in L.A. His wife upped the ante and said no, come for a home cooked meal. Of course his casual at-home is on another planet - he lives in one of America’s most glamorous houses, built in the 50s by Conrad Hilton. But that’s another whole story.

The One & Only Palmilla is definitely on that alpha level of recreation spots; it was only natural that we would see an Il San Pietro guest there as well. I would say that there are a dozen places around the world where the low-key mega wealthy go. They aren’t looking for the hip, party experience or lots of attention, just the best of the best places to unwind. You don’t find the Richard Bransons or paparazzi there, just the stealth-wealth, off duty billionaires in shorts and loafers…

POOL POSITION

There are two pools - the adult one has a complimentary foot massage and thatched rood area and the kids pool has the famously wide infinity edge that stretches way across, meting into the horizon view. Although I am tired of the word ‘infinity’ to describe pools these days, I could certainly look out to the ocean over that vista forever!

The pools seem to flow over the cliffs and the beach setting is a stunning spot to chill out in. The sand is really wide and very pure and powdery. The Baja Peninsula beaches are not technically private, but are used exclusively by guests in front of the hotel - and Palmilla is one of the only swimmable beaches in Cabo.

January is whale migration time so we saw grey whales in the water during the day - which is always a thrill, let alone from poolside! There is an honorary whale-watching terrace with binoculars and thatched huts near the ocean. The ever-present nachos and guacamole are always being served and the lemonades came with big chunks of fresh lemon. The Staff are all in flowing white cotton uniforms called “charros” that were originally worn in the 19th century, colonial era. Even the chaise lounges are not plastic here, but made of beautiful teak wood, with decorative curved arms that have a curlicue at each end.

Sheira works so hard running our house at home that she is always into downtime when away. I’m Mr. Itinerary - but give her a deckchair and a book and she’s happy! We were all relaxing at “The One & Only pool” on the day that two major things happened: the stock market crashed and Heath Ledger died (22nd Jan 2008). Even cocooned here bad news reached us.

The boys had their beach balls down in the ocean and Noah, less of a sun worshipper than Josh, hung out in the shade of these amazing pavilions that were really simple platforms with raw tree trunk columns and a thatched roof. You didn’t pre-book them but hand marked them with flags in the sand.

HALL OF FAME - BEACH BUTLERS

The fact that you get assigned a beach butler at no extra cost has put the “One & Only” in our Hall of Fame. His job is to keep you stocked up with drinks, towels and the most gorgeous, moisturising body spray (I still have one at home and I can’t bring myself to use it up!). How refreshing to have a cucumber, mint mist cool you down every so often. The fact that you have a butler support system means that you never have to leave the beach; you simply communicate using flags. A flag standing up in the sand means you want service - if it’s lying down you don’t.

It is worth having a walk around this area all the way to the boundary of the property to get a distant perspective, with all its curved walls and staircase with no sharp edges. If you go beyond, there are these beautiful, tiered stone walls with colonnades, balustrades - and views over all the gorgeous private mansions all around the “One & Only”, that match the local Mexican architecture beautifully.