The nearest point to Cape Kidnappers is the port town Napier, which is only a very short flight from Wellington, a main connection point that Air New Zealand flies into from around the country and internationally.

We had a helicopter on standby to fly us from Taupo, also on the North Island. But it seemed unnecessary for a fairly short scenic drive so once again on this trip, I got into an improbable, fire-engine red Ford rental which had clashed with the safari feel of our previous base, Huka Lodge. And I’m talking red - from the leather inside to the alloy wheels!

We traveled East towards the coast, a streak of primary colour across the emerald green carpet of the countryside. It is a really stunning drive with big sky and lots of varied topography, from craggy, rocky hills and dipping valleys to huge vistas of the plains miles ahead. It’s an area that we would like to make stops in and explore further one day.However,we were lodge-bound, taking the main road to the port of Napier then traveling another half hour along a coastal road until we got to a little turn-off to Cape Kidnappers. Look closely, it’s easy to miss. You press the button and announce whether you are a resident or have come to play golf.

You drive through the enormous 6000-acre, privately owned estate and it’s exciting to arrive at such a dramatic setting. The farm is perched on the pointy edge of a peninsula where just ahead a tiny sea stack juts out of the ocean. The Lodge is part of a working farm and we immediately loved the distinctive raw, barnyard type timber walls, beautifully weathered to a pale grey. There are really solid architectural elements like massive wooden doors with oversized hinges and wrought iron picture windows - light floods through all the glass so the overall effect is cosy and cheerful. Nothing is fussy or frilly, from the spiky, rust-coloured succulents in giant earthen pots to the strong design elements that really draw you in. The outdoor stone terraces have spectacular views over rolling green lawns.

We got an expansive welcome from the Managing Director, Jay - who couldn’t be nicer or more enthusiastic about showing us the property. This is gourmet country! “As soon as you are ready I want to do something pretty special” he said, inviting us to tour the estate in his Land Rover. We were only too happy - I love anchoring myself by getting a sense of new terrain, especially in such an extraordinary landscape. And the intimacy of being taken around by the Managing Director was a much-appreciated bonus.

We were gobsmacked as we drove through the property, which encompasses vast stretches of green, dotted with forest pines. It is quite distinctive from the established trees and landscaped gardens of the hotel grounds. We passed a Gannet Colony and he explained the local community’s passion for environmental work: kiwis are big on nature preservation (which is why we all want to go there to enjoy the spoils!)

I liked the undercurrent of real life behind the scenes too; Jay showed us the fencing that Cape Kidnappers shares with the neighbouring farms to protect their sheep and cattle from live foxes. Every couple of hundred metres we had to stop to get through all the farm gates. Kids love being needed and trusted with tasks so we let our eight-year old, Zoe take over from Jay. Turning life into a game is always a great way to keep kids involved.

It’s a varied landscape that is always dominated by chalky coloured cliffs that plunge more than 800 feet. We drove right along the verge and up close they have marble-like streaks of brown and cream.

Mother Nature may really pull out the stops here but as soon as you hit the entrance of the lodge you realise that the man-made INTERIORS are pretty compelling too… We loved the huge open scale of the lobby, with lots of glass and the character of the triple height, exposed timber and stone walls covered with farm implements from ploughs and threshing machines, re-imagined as art objects.

All the exposed wood and glass keeps the décor’s rustic feel modern. Being a guy, I’m not exactly at home in the cottage chintzy and frilly look so I loved the innovative rawness of some of the public spaces. Old wicker packing trucks and red tin drums double as tables, softened nicely with silk or wool cushions and artwork.

You see that really good design mix in the lounge spaces as well, where classic French and English country house flavours are put together with a New World lack of stuffiness. Raw beams, antler chandeliers and a giant stone fireplace are lightened up by armchairs in palest mushroom or mustard leather, pale skin rugs and a simple bunch of hydrangeas in a copper pot.

But the real pièce de resistance is the “snug”, the silo style lounge - an entirely round room with double height timber planks and a custom-made curved lounge built in along the wall. I love strong, directional design with personality - even young Zoe got a kick out of this spatial eccentricity. At night, with all the accent lighting, it was just magical.

The POOL is nice and big, especially for a non-tropical setting - and the farmhouse look is a refreshing change. You can sit in the suntrap created by lovely stone walls and enjoy crisp fresh air, pine trees and the pool’s sparkling infinity edge that blends exactly with the sky’s brilliant blue. An open-air pavilion in cream wood is a natural extension of the building and another place to shelter while you enjoy the outdoors.

SUITE DREAMS

We were staying in little farm chalets that were slightly apart on a hilly skyline ridge about four minutes walk away from the main building, past the pool. Perched high, looking down at the property, the eight RIDGE SUITES all have charming stable-style doors and open to their own private porch.

The cream wood in the bathrooms and sturdy furniture has an American colonial, Cape Cod feel. It’s really homey to have a fireplace in your room and big picture windows; they recapture the fresh, country atmosphere of the main lodge. Sheira loved the fluffy bedding and Cape Kidnappers stitched cushions; the farm machinery makes its way onto the walls here too… Jay was involved and clearly has innate taste and a brilliant eye beyond that for effective décor. There is a really cool disguise… One of the paintings is on a hinge and opens to reveal a TV that comes out - cute. Apparently people ring up in a panic to ask where it is. The bathroom is just enormous and I always like a bath next to the window.

Double, NZD 680 - 1190 per night (according to the season)

The ten HILLTOP suites are more elevated for those who put a premium on district views. (Double, NZD 580 - 880 per night)

If you are an older person or prefer proximity there are four larger LODGE suites in the building, priced like the Ridge Suites.

Luxury travelers may want to get back to Nature, but they usually want to take their urban bells and whistles with them. All the suites have the flat screen TVs and wifi - along with the panoramic views.

MONEY TO BURN

The OWNERS COTTAGE is the deluxe 4-bedroom house version of the cottages that could fool you into thinking you had permanently moved in at Cape Kidnappers! It is great for a whole family or two bunking in together - in style. It is tucked privately behind a small hill with clear views from the huge double height lounge, massive stone terrace and deck. The vista is sheep grazing on the lawns, the forest beyond and out to sea.

I love, from afar, the design purity of the huge fireplace with ocean views on each side of it, and the chic, neutral palette of stone, wood and oat coloured fabric. You could totally retreat with a private chef or enjoy it as a base for exploring the natural surroundings.

It’s really impressive: as soon as I saw this rock star version of the cosy cottages I realised what a true gem this property is on the world stage. I say ‘world’ because you need to bring your (bulging) wallet. The whole shebang will cost you, seasonally NZD 8000 - 12,500. Although it can be split into a 2-bdr house and 2-bdr suite at, seasonally, NZD 5000-8750 and NZD 3900-5500 respectively. Those rates are per night !