THEY SAY We are a “Hotel and Universe” – once you enter our space we bring you down a ‘path of sensations’ that is utterly unique - with fully personalised service.

WE SAY You are crossing a threshold when you leave the vast industrial space of Puerto Madero. As soon as you arrive at the surreal, huge, stand-alone red-brick converted grain silo, you do enter another world - by red carpet, accompanied by Hotel Faena staff in capes. Philippe Starck has created a completely over the top interpretation of lush, European maximalism - but with his signature modern, monochromatic stamp, effective immediately.


The drama begins with giant plant holders at the entrance and gorgeous, blood-red glass panels with Victorian-style etching set into the enormous, old brick walls. We crossed this beautiful long lobby where an intoxicatingly musky, clove-like smell hangs in the air. I was so crazy about this scent that I bought a spray bottle of it for our house; it takes me back there instantly. Veronica Magnetto,  ‘Experience Manager’ (suitably post-modern) gave us an extraordinary welcome, inviting us for drinks in the library room. She was so on the ball that she had already corresponded with me, offering to work on our 4-day itinerary stay for us.

I like to hit the ground running so I took out my itinerary straight away and finetuned it with her for well over an hour. Veronica was happy to help and also arrange a hairdresser on the spot for Sheira - an exceptional front of house person.

To get to the hair salon you walk past the fabulous gym, which is totally exposed within this cavernous, industrial sized glass ‘cube’ - very sexy architecture, a little like the Apple store on Fifth Avenue. It’s out of the ordinary: most Hotel gyms are sad rooms hidden in the basement.

Starck is masterful at creating an uplifting emotional impact. I am not normally the formal, hotel dining room type - but even the Faena’s ‘bistro’ restaurant space is outrageous. The European furniture is über-classic but the effect of white on white (including the floor) is pure space age - with rows of unicorns on the wall adding a surreal, very Jean Cocteau twist.

SUITE DREAMS

SHEIRA said...

Our suite at the Faena was very artistic and stylised, but I am not sure I really enjoy it. It is a personal thing. I appreciate the visual power of very directional design - but when it comes to a hotel room I prioritise a certain level of comfort over fashion; I want my sanctuary in a new place to be nurturing.

The bed is at an unusual angle, a classic Starck touch, and rich, red drapes pull across the bathroom, which becomes totally exposed through glass. It’s fun and different, but everything you touch is hard; the basin is sitting on a glass pedestal without a cupboard underneath, there is nowhere to put your products, you can’t hang a towel over the bath. What happened to ‘form follows function?’ Even the lounge chair in our suite was uncomfortable. The high chair was like a banquette shaped set so you didn’t feel right at the table; we couldn’t open the venetian blind.

And having that heavy red, bordello flavour, which really pops in a photograph, was a bit too much. I think in fairness it didn’t hold up as well because we had just come from the Fasano in Rio, which is on the beach. We missed that joyous element of light, airiness and fusion with the outside. Argentina is not on the ocean of course, so staying in a converted industrial warehouse in a very dusty, urban environment feels a lot heavier.

Our suite in room 610 cost us about USD730 per night.

Having said that, we though the design worked brilliantly in the public spaces.
There is a Philippe Starck thread that attracts interesting Europeans and local Argentineans to this totally modern, non-corporate fantasy world. You’re just as likely to see a pop star, visiting actor or jet set entrepreneur here as a business manager. The Faena is a destination in itself - any visitor to Buenos Aires would want to visit and we loved returning there each night.


THE LIBRARY LOUNGE & BAR 

Is a sexy, low lit bar space with lots of velvet, dangling crystals and gentleman’s club touches like wing tipped chairs, chesterfield couches and antique rugs. Starck throws the whole thing off by draping the mounted deer on the walls in diamond chokers and pearls. It’s so brilliant: one ironic twist and suddenly everything looks like the manor of a very twisted Argentinean aristocrat.

We always seek out spaces with a vibe where you can sit down and talk with interesting strangers or hear some live music so having the lounge right there was a huge bonus. The crowd was 20’s to 50s and everything in between; mothers and daughters dancing together… men in trilby hats and sexy girls with fire engine red lips lounging on the chesterfields. I love the way South Americans mix comfortably at all ages.

The place was really jumping. One night we saw a bizarre band playing live - the lead singer wore a shredded mask over goggles while her lead guitarist was in Burberry shirt. I LIKE THAT !! They juxtaposed the classic with the freaky, just like the hotel.

POOL POSITION

We also enjoyed kicking back on the long, tomato red mattresses poolside - which in high season becomes a cocktail hot spot with DJs. The bar is under a wittily faux iron marquee, and there are splashes of red, potted geraniums. We saw models and media people relaxing there and met a Parisienne who is G.M. of a well known Parisian hotel. You can really work it, networking, or chill out by the pool.

The Faena was the best part of our Buenos Aires experience. Faena is a cultural and culinary oasis. The hotel tries to conjure every kind of experience - from the literal steam of the marble hammam and figurative sizzle of their tango show to the spa and unusual boutique. Although we usually stay right in the city centre where we can walk straight out into shops and cafes we were glad to have experienced this wonderful, interesting, hip, colourful hotel.