I’m normally the kind of traveler to dig deep when it comes to searching out hotels - anything to unearth that rare, hidden bijou. But when I come across a hotel that just gets it right, captures the spirit of a place better than anywhere else, and gives us so many good memories that it becomes iconic to Sheira, myself and the kids, then I’ll throw out my rule book and just enjoy returning to our favourite spot and seeing the staff’s familiar faces.
When visiting Tel Aviv it’s a given that I’ll stay right by the beach at the Hilton. It’s the type of big, well-maintained 4-star accommodation that I would normally never think of anywhere else in the world. In Israel however, due to the political situation, there hasn’t been a lot of money poured into new hotels or full refurbishments of the Hiltons, Sheratons and Intercontinental style big name brands. Funnily enough, this gives them a less corporate, sterile feel, and in the Hilton’s case, over the years the friendly staff and lobby scene have become Tel Aviv institutions. Although this is a bigger, modern building run by an international chain, the Tel Aviv Hilton has its own distinctive personality - something I treasure wherever I stay.
I also love the hotel’s fantastic location overlooking a nice, golden stretch of Mediterranean coastline, slightly further along from the city centre in calmer INDEPENDENCE PARK. The combination of the ocean and an 80ft saltwater outdoor swimming pool creates a real holidaymaker, frolic in the water atmosphere.
The security in front is excellent: there are boom gates before you even get into the compound and the hotel is gated with guards who search cars and check underneath with mirrors - so you never really forget the tensions in the region. But the attitude of the staff is never too overt, and the safer you feel on entering the grounds, the more you can relax later.
Although the exterior has that classic 1960's generic style hotel architecture, once you reach inside, the Hilton looks and feels like a 5 star, deluxe hotel, where a stunning timber grid roof spans the entire space.
Arriving at the lobby of the Tel Aviv Hilton is to me one of the great experiences of travel! You enter a vast meeting place full of international travelers and business people from all over the world; my heart races when I feel the energy of all the people walking around. Winter or summer, the lobby is bustling with well-heeled guests in the many sitting nooks, bars and business areas. This is actually more a business hotel than a resort, but it is never too defined because the balance between the two is so nicely done.
There are many people that I greet on arrival. I always say hello to RACHEL, a friendly lady in reservations who’ll always make an extra effort if needed. The concierge, ARIEL is a delightful person who is passionate about her guests getting the most out of their stay in Tel Aviv - and has the sophistication to pull off unusual requests or understand the subtleties that a luxury travelers is often looking for.
After six trips over the past five years, both alone and with the family, every time we return here, we’re coming home: we know what we’re getting, and have never been let down, and there is an unusual sense of intimacy for such a big hotel. Although hotels like the DAVID INTERCONTINENTAL are newer and maybe more appealing for that reason, they don’t have the same soul as this city meeting place.
Check-in is always swift and easy, but it’s easy to get distracted by what is on offer all around you; the ground floor space is a world unto itself with plenty to see - a $165,000 diamond necklace glittering in the window at Brazilian jeweler, H Stern here, the hushed sushi bar there (see WHERE TO SHOP and WHERE TO EAT). Every time I continue past these cavernous lounges, a piano tinkling away over the hum of voices, I am reminded that Tel Aviv is really the Paris of the Middle East. It’s all part of my ritual…
Travelers who like to work out will love the gym downstairs, which has great views and a personal trainer likely to have trained in the army. And the Independence Park district has enough residential pockets, embassies and interesting neighborhood stores and restaurants not to be touristy; the streets have an inner city, gritty charm here.
Because Israel is so small and there are so many day trips and satellite attractions, we base ourselves in the Tel Aviv Hilton and do our commuting that way. There are highrise buildings along this stretch of coastline and plenty to see and do on either side (like ancient coastal town JAFFA further south), but sometimes you just want to stay put.
I have so many great HILTON HOTEL POOLSIDE memories: catching up with friends from London when I came alone in 2008 to travel on to Jordan (see PETRA). We spent the afternoon laughing and catching up, then moved our reunion across the road to the beach. Another time I met up with a Facebook friend and her daughter whom I had first met in Hayman Island in tropical Australia.
There is a real scene by the pool that I love, not because it’s trendy, cool or plays great music - simply because it is a genuinely social place where everyone has someone to see, as they jostle for position in a prized seat, the closer to the pool the better…
EXECUTIVE FLOORS
The Hilton’s position right on the Mediterranean gives all rooms great water views and city skyline, whether facing north or south.
My big recommendation - in fact it’s a deal breaker - is to stay on the top two EXECUTIVE FLOORS: 16th & 17th
This gives you access to the marvelous penthouse EXECUTIVE LOUNGE on the 17th floor - as much a part of our Hilton ritual to the Saids as the buzzing lobby downstairs, and an essential part of our enjoyment of the hotel.
The lounge gives the luxury traveler a level of exclusivity… We go straight to the top floor where our own concierge checks us in upstairs - a streamlined way to bypass the longer process downstairs. You have exclusive access to a relaxed, sky-high retreat where you can read papers, catch up on wifi and potentially meet other families: Zoe at 5 would always find someone to play with and I enjoyed meeting the interesting mix of work and leisure travelers in a more intimate setting.
The huge convenience and value of having buffets meals available throughout the day for your kids is also such a bonus that it makes staying on the cheaper, lower floors false economy. By the time you consider how much room service mounts up if kids are snacking or eating all day, the Executive Suite pay for itself - plus you get the better rooms and furnishings.
One time the family stayed on the 5th floor: although the sweeping stretch of coastline was a memorable view, the experience just doesn’t compare.
We had 3 executive rooms with plenty of features that really make a stay: good dimensions, and a comfy KING SIZE bed - which is great for travelers like Sheira who put a premium on resting while on holiday. The big balcony allows guests to step out and take in the amazing Mediterranean views from this height, which includes the marina if you take a suite facing the south.
The Executive Suites are very livable, as the lounge has a great, roomy sofa and a genuine workspace. In the last few years the Hilton has also started to renovate the executive floors into very modern spaces, with all the expected luxury signatures like Plasma TVs and marble bathrooms with oversized bathtubs. Some bathrooms are open-plan, which make some people slightly uncomfortable, so when you check in I’d suggest asking for a room with the private bathroom.
You’ll have a huge bowl of fruit, wine, chocolates, slippers and bathrobes - and a generous stretch of Tel Aviv’s coastline - waiting for you…
