The moment we arrived at Mnemba Island, we realised that our long journey over land and sea led to paradise - the kind of rare Robinson Crusoe experience that people dream about. We were so glad to be here; the tropical peace instantly makes your spirits lift and the fatigue of a safari week melt away.

We had the kind of ‘open arms,’ welcome that makes traveling in Africa such a heartwarming experience. Peter, the assistant manager was joined by Kundi (our personal butler who has been there for 10 years), along  with Robyn & Eli from the diving centre, head chef Rosie all gathered around to meet and welcome us. We had our first introduction to a DAWA cocktail (“medicine” in Swahili) made with honey, lime and vodka. If that was not enough, soon Kate the masseuse, and Chef Judy also joined the welcome party. You could tell that the permanent community here is very much a family, which made our welcome even more hospitable and previewed the warm Zanzibarian service we enjoyed throughout our stay.

Note: Mike & Sarah the managers of the property where away the week we were there. They went off and got married! I am sure they will be there to welcome you when you arrive at Mnemba!

Peter explained why the island resort, which attracts luxury travelers from around the world, keeps the nearest rock-scattered road so rough - a world away from the rustling palms and endless turquoise water that awaits. There is method to the madness! He said it keeps mass tourism at bay. If the road was smooth and access to the island easy, he assured us that the modern virus of jet skis, beach bars, souvenir shops and high numbers would soon follow and find a place on the other side of the island.

For now there is nothing but the pristine coral sands of a totally unspoilt beach: not even deckchairs or sports equipment clutter the scene (scuba divers can find their equipment in its own hut as is other water crafts like paddle skis or kyaks). The resort has achieved its goal: to blend in with the beauty around.

The castaway ambience is matched brilliantly by the rustic yet chic design. I have a particular passion for open-air architecture that cleverly provides shelter, privacy and shade without ever blocking the breeze or the view of the stunning outdoor setting by walls. I can now say that we have found another amazing example! (See our OPEN-AIR CHIC list in EVERYTHING ELSE for other examples around the world).

One of the few public areas is a pavilion lounge where, as Sheira puts it… looks like an architect got stranded and built a structure from scratch with whatever was lying around the beach. The supports are raw timber poles, traditional woven matting covers the floor and coconut palm fronds droop over the roof, fringing the exterior with the natural form of the plants.

The couches are built in as an organic part of the structure; you sit on low cushions in creamy neutrals, your feet are in the sand and you can stroll up to the open plan bar and serve yourself anytime - or staff may be there to serve you. A “Man Friday” will always be at hand to make your castaway experience effortless.

The overwhelming effect of Mnemba Island is  -the total sense of ease. You can spend day and night in a simple, floaty piece of clothing and bare feet. Sheira said…this is a place where you can fit everything you really need into a handbag! Nothing but a good moisturiser, a wide-brimmed hat, swimwear and a sundress. If you want to get with the spirit of East Africa, you are supplied with several KIKOI - colourful Kenyan sarongs which you can slip into for your stay. With this next-to-nothing lifestyle - you won’t need much more…

We also loved the charming little stone cottage library that looks like it has been there forever. It had the most wonderful collection of black & white photographs of Stone Town back in the 1940’s. There is a collection of books that you can read, or just enjoy sitting in the peaceful space of this stone cottage.

It’s worth mentioning as well, that there are no spiders, snakes or scary things on the island. You do however share this small island with shy neighbours: gorgeous miniature forest antelopes called DUIKER. (As an endangered species, they are bred here and then sent back to the mainland, into other breeding programs). You don’t see these gentle creatures during the day, but you can almost set your watch by their 6 pm first appearance, as they quietly pick their way through the shrubbery.

Time comes to a standstill at Mnemba Island in a way that I have rarely seen before. The fact that the world’s richest (and probably busiest) man, Bill Gates has been a guest here really made an impression on me. If a workaholic, IT genius and empire builder can take this time out to rejuvenate (and travel on a crazy road to get here) then I was going to cut off from reality, stop my schedule-driven ways and bliss out too!

SUITE DREAMS 

A large part of the intimacy at Mnemba is created by the resort’s exclusivity. There are just 10 beachside villas, called BANDAS artfully hidden away from each other around the small island, which is about 1.7 kms around (see MORNING RUN), ringed by beach with a cluster of dense tropical foliage at its centre.

You can’t see the villas from the beach as they have been set back amongst the trees; to get to them you walk past timber sun lounges under a wooden canopy overlooking the Indian Ocean. It’s so quiet that you usually don’t see guests, who are usually relaxing in their own villa: there’s no pool for them to congregate around.

THE FAMILY VILLA

We stayed in BANDA #1, which is a little further from the resort’s lounge/dining centre, because its best suited to hold an extra bed to accommodate our daughter Zoe. (A good suggestion for two couples traveling together would be BANDA #7 & #8 because they are close by and share the same path)

Our villa was to die for! After walking through some of the world’s softest, powdery sand, looking out to endless pure azure, we reached our new, natural looking timber and bamboo retreat - with no glass and no doors. My favourite thing!

The secluded cottage is made from raffia style, Zanzibarian palm matting ‘walls’ - broken up by huge, cut out windows. There are so many details that contribute to the whimsical fun, island feeling of the free flowing space: the basket weave texture on the walls and raffia-like blinds that roll up and down; the raw timber furniture and shelving - with a simple suspended rod in the dressing area for hanging clothes; 

It’s like Tarzan built a treehouse on the ground. A decorative picture frame (minus the picture or painting) hangs freely in mid-air. The bathroom is so well done… still keeping the outdoor theme. The huge open shower is protected by long beads that create a clever shower screen - even the tap in the massive, open space bathroom (with double basin) is a timber spout! Birds come to perch and twitter on the windowsill. Naturally Zoe loved the fun of it all and never wanted to leave...

But Mnemba never compromises on luxury where it’s important. The massive solid bed was a joy to sleep in and the villa service impeccable. Our Room steward, Hamadi would leave our laundered clean clothes (a complimentary service) with a printed card signed “Lovingly Laundered, from Kassim.”

We also loved the extra space of the open-air VERANDAH in the front, which makes the suite feel even breezier. It flows straight out from the interior, covered by the resort’s signature fringed palm leaf look. There are proper armchairs and gorgeous curved accent lights - but all done in the same raw materials and rustic neutrals.

But what really elevates this accommodation into the high end stratosphere is the setting: your Banda is flooded with a picture-perfect beach view of gently lapping turquoise water and dazzlingly pure white sand that can’t fail to lift your spirits. To get even closer to the ocean yet keep sun protection, all Banda’s have their own picturesque wooden sun bed with roof made of raw timber and reeds creating a perfect place to read, sleep or just watch the day pass by.

MONEY TO BURN

PRICE: Although I consider this exclusive island to be in our extra-expensive price bracket, I believe Mnemba Island gives value for money as the service, setting, eco-design and amenities deliver on their promise. 

Seasonally, $US 1,100 - $US 1,500 per person, per day.

PLEASE NOTE: The island is closed April - May.